Category Archives: Italy

Via Francigena waymarker

Walking vaguely Rome-wards: Chivasso to Lamporo

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Obviously the best day to do a 25 km walk with minimal shade is a muggy, hazy day, one where you can’t see any distant scenery and sunburn is inevitable. It’s what anyone would do, right? Guys?

At any rate, it’s what I did last Saturday. In numbers:

  • Hours in advance I’d planned this: 12. I was feeling energetic Friday night, and at some point I decided I should continue with this ‘walking to Rome‘ business. A bit of quick Google-map-ing and I figured I knew what I was doing.
  • Kilometres originally planned to walk: 13.5. You know, a reasonable 2-3 hours. But “just in case I was feeling extra energetic”, I looked a bit further ahead and planned a longer route: Chivasso-Lamporo, ~20 km on the via Francigena and then an extra 4.5 km Lamporo-Crescentino train station. Really, given the option of a longer walk, what did I think was going to happen??
  • Number of snakes spotted: 3. “There are no venomous snakes in Piemonte” became my motto. If that isn’t true, please don’t tell me. The worst was when a snake and I startled each other on an over-grown bit path, one of the few bits of the route that wasn’t a road. “Oh my goodness!” I sad aloud. Fortunately, the snake didn’t reply. That was the one point I wished I was with a group, so I could be the one faux-cheerfully saying “There are no venomous snakes in Piemonte, let’s go!” It’s less convincing when no-one is listening.
  • Number of frogs: dozens. As I was walking next to irrigation canals they’d jump in when I went past. Plop, plop, plop. I whistled “Galumph went the little green frog” as I walked. I hope the frogs only know the first verse and chorus.
  • Number of corn fields: All of them. Every single corn field. So. much. corn. I was so excited when I came across a rice field towards the end of the day. If I were an actual pilgrim, I’d be doing insanely long days just to get out of the plains as quickly as possible. But… there is something to be said for long boring walks. After the first hour or two, you start to accept that nothing much is going to happen, and you end up doing all the thinking and daydreaming you’d been putting off for the past while.
Festival delle Sagre, Asti, Italy

The time I ate donkey meat – festival delle sagre

“Does asino mean what I think it–”

“Sure does.”

“Alrighty then. How many plates shall we get?”

Asino is Italian for donkey, and the context was a food stall selling meat-stuffed pasta. I’d gone with some friends to the Festival delle Sagre — the Festival of Festivals — a weekend food festival in Asti, south of Torino. Imagine an agricultural show/county fair with a ferris wheel, but with almost all the exhibits being food stalls. There must have been at least 50 of them. And not nasty showgrounds food. Each stall featured one or two freshly-made dishes, the local specialties of villages in a region known internationally for its food.

And now add in the fact that every stand has wine, typically included in the price of food. And you can buy an empty glass that comes with a holder so you can wear it around your neck as you walk around. Genius!

WINE HOLDER

WINE HOLDER

As soon as we’d arrived, we realized we were going to need a strategy for all this. We started with a reconnaisance — walking around, sussing out what options there were. Truffle risotto! Polenta with wild boar! The options were dizzying. By the time we were halfway through our recon run, it was getting hard to not buy everything in sight.

Once we had the lay of the land, we decided on our first stop, which was by far the highlight of the savoury options — friciula, a fried bread-y-pastry-y thing, with fatty pancetta. It came recommended to us, and it was a good call. Fat and starch and salt and everything delicious. “It’s funny, everyone back in England seems to think Italian food is healthy,” said S. We looked at what we were eating and laughed.

Hard at work serving wine to wash down the artery-clogging goodness.

Hard at work serving wine to wash down the artery-clogging goodness.

Our second stop was the agnolotti d’asino, the donkey pasta. I have to admit, I’m not really a huge meat eater and while I could tell the pasta was different to others I’ve had, I don’t know how much was the donkey meat and how much was the flavourings they used. It was tasty, but. And a good discussion starter — if horse is ok to eat, why not donkey? Or to go a step back towards Australian thinking — if cow is ok to eat, why not horse…?

While we were walking around, thinking about what to get next, we hit on the optimal food-finding strategy: hang around the central area where the tables were, look at what other people are eating, and if it looked good, ask them where it was from. It was through this, plus a discussion of whether polenta is similar to ugali, that we ended up with polenta and wild boar stew. (The verdict: polenta is not like ugali, but it is good.)

At this point we were extremely full. “No you finish the polenta; no you; no really, I can’t” level of full. We had to make some serious decisions about desserts. I think we got it right: zabaglione (custard but amazing custard made with wine not, like, custard powder custard), and “chocolate salami”, which is possibly the best chocolate slice I’ve ever had (it doesn’t contain salami, if you were wondering). Two very different options, both delicious.

It was a happy sleepy train ride home, full of food and wine. We are so doing this again next year.

Ten things you should know about hiking

A post about something recent! Some friends and I went hiking last weekend.

  1. Everything feels like more of an adventure if you get up early for it. Even if you’re only up early because you woke up an hour before your alarm, and you decided to get out of bed and clean your apartment.
  2. If your plans involve Italian trains running on time, they will be delayed, pushing everything back until your hike is an after-lunch hike.
  3. Which isn’t a problem, because a picnic lunch in a village in the Alps is pretty great in its own right. Especially with fresh bread and cheese and sausage and fruit.
  4. It turns out the haze you always thought was air pollution must be partly just humidity, because even in this valley, it’s there. You won’t get the crystal-clear mountain air you’d been daydreaming of during the week, but the haze does make the landscape rather painterly.
  5. When the trail mostly follows the road, you can go fast, even when the clouds come in and visibility is low. This will seem like a good idea at the time. Your stiff muscles and awkward-baby-giraffe gait 3 days after the hike will disagree.
  6. Cows and calves are almost as cute as sheep and lambs; cowbells are useful for warning you there are cows on the road when walking through clouds; it is impossible to resist mooing loudly as you pass a herd of cows, even if you’ve passed 4 already.
  7. A woman with grey hair and wellies will pass you as you pause for a drink, and wish you a pleasant hike. One minute later, she will be nowhere to be seen on the road, even though there are no side paths. Probably she is a farmer and has gone into a field. Maybe she is a witch.
  8. In the end, even going fast, you won’t reach the lake the signposts were vague about the location of. You will however witness the clouds lifting and the sun coming out over a meadow of wildflowers, complete with a mountain stream and views to higher hills beyond.
  9. Nettles are real, and they do look just like on the box of nettle tea you used to drink in Australia. You’re only going to realize this after you walk through a patch of them.
  10. Homemade fruit cake you weren’t convinced about while in the city will taste amazing when you’ve just walked from 1400 to 2000 metres above sea level. (You need to go hiking again – you’ve got nearly a quarter of the fruitcake still in your fridge.)

Naples in skulls

I spent the Easter weekend in Naples. There’s a longer post coming soon, but for now, here are some macabre-themed photos.

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Outside a church in the old town. A little girl with her mother and an aunt stopped to have a look. “Rub it for good luck,” the mother said. The girl gave it a tentative pat, decided it was ok, then grabbed on with both hands. “Be careful, you’ll have too much good luck!” laughed the aunt.

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Creeeeeeepy. This was in the courtyard of the monastery of San Martino.

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Mosaic at the archeological museum. The craftsmanship on all these ancient mosaics was amazing (most of them were substantially less macabre).

Street art.

Street art.

 

Notes from the beach in winter

Near Nervi, a quartiere of Genova

Near Nervi, a quartiere of Genova

Last time I was on the Ligurian coast it was August, and stiflingly hot and crowded. Now in February, I’d made a spontaneous day-trip, trying to escape the feeling of claustrophobia I was developing as a result of living inland after growing up in a city known for its sea breezes.

Despite being february, the sun was warm on my face and the breeze was cold, but pleasantly so. I unzipped the collar of my jacket and loosened my scarf. Dark clouds were coming in from the south east however, and the water was turning from blue to green-grey.

The beach itself wasn’t as empty as I’d expected. A mother was reading a picture book to her young daughter. A middle-aged couple wearing ear-muffs walked past me. He wanted to get an icecream, she wasn’t sure. A group of children were skimming stones in the water, and I heard one of them laugh with delight: she had just managed four bounces.

Turin snapshots

As I mentioned, I’m now living in Turin (Torino). It’s not famous as a tourist destination, but (therefore?) it’s a great place to live. And (ssh! don’t tell anyone!) it’s actually pretty great from a tourist point of view, too. Some snapshots from the past 9 months:

Piazza Vittorio Veneto

Piazza Vittorio Veneto, looking much as it did in the 1800s.

Ponte Isabella

The river Po is just east of the historical centre. This is the Ponte Isabella in spring.

The #7 tram

The #7 tram. I hate to use the word ‘cute’ to describe part of a city’s transport infrastructure, but is there a better word for a tram like this?

La Mole

The Mole is Turin’s most famous building. It used to be a synagogue, but now it hosts the cinema museum.

View from the Mole

If you’re in Turin and the weather is clear, the one thing you should do that costs money is to take the lift up the Mole. Just look at the view!

Miscellaneous notes

  • We were talking at lunch the other day how ‘bistecca alla fiorentina’ has to be rare – nowhere with a self-respecting chef would ask you how you’d like it done. I was reminded of the fact that in Australia, hamburgers are just hamburgers, even at hipster burger places, but this isn’t the case in Texas. Which lead to conversations along the lines of “I’ll have the burger, please.” “Sure, how would you like it?” “Uh, with a patty in a bun and some sauces and maybe vegetables– oh, that’s not what you’re asking, is it?”
  • People who write about these sorts of things say that a few weeks/months into being in a foreign country you start to notice everything that’s wrong with it. I seem to have avoided this so far, until making hot cross buns this afternoon. I’m okay with having to make my own because they aren’t sold in the shops. I’m okay with the language barrier that means I’m not entirely sure I have strong flour and I nearly bought bicarb rather than yeast. I’m okay with not being in my own kitchen and having no way to accurately measure quantities. What I’m not okay with is not being able to find mixed peel pieces without cherries included. I just spent fifteen minutes trying to separate the orange citrus-y bits from the bright red/green cherry bits. Dear Italy, when you don’t have normal mixed peel in the baking section at the supermarket, you are DOING IT WRONG and you should be ASHAMED of yourself, regards, Zoe.
  • A week from now and I’ll be in Glasgow. Tme flies!

Some photos from Italy

I’m skipping over Austin for the time being and showing some photos from Italy so that I can pretend the blog is vaguely up to date.

This is the view from my apartment window on a Saturday afternoon:

I’m staying in the centre of Florence this time (as opposed to out in the ‘burbs near the Institute) so it’s all narrow streets and stately buildings and a view through to the side of Santa Maria Novella church. Heck yeah, as the Italians wouldn’t say.

My second weekend here I went to Rome:

Oh hey it’s the Colosseum.

I didn’t take many photos in Rome, because I’ve never worked out how to get on camera the sorts of things that stick out to me like the assertiveness you need to cross the road and the rollercoaster ride of friendliness and rudeness you get from staff in touristy areas. But even my cheap-o point and shoot can get a cliche shot of a Really Old Building.

Finally, looking out down the hill from Perugia:

I was in Perugia for only a day, and half of that was visiting a group at the physics department there and giving a talk about some of my research. Unfortunately the physics building there is as ugly as every other physics building in the world — I guess it would be hard to set up modern lab space in some gorgeous medieval castle — but I met some friendly people who clearly enjoyed doing interesting research, so that totally makes up for the 60s architecture. And there was plenty of time afterwards for taking photos like the above.

Places I would like to go: Bologna.

I have been to Bologna Centrale train station at least a dozen times — it’s a hub for getting from Florence to almost anywhere north of Florence, such as Venice, Padova, Ferrara, Verona, etc etc. However, I’ve never been outside of a 10 minute walk radius of the station, since I’ve always been passing through with perhaps an hour to spare, but no more.

Which is unfortunate really, since the little of Bologna I have seen suggests it’s really nice:

Statue with horse

Bare tree and street

Also, friends who have been there say the food is really good, and I would travel to an ugly concrete box town in the middle of the desert if you could promise me the food was good.

Fortunately for my wish to go to Bologna, I’ll be in Florence again in April, so I think it’s high time I made a Saturday day-trip there.