Category Archives: Turkey

Istanbul!!!

9 days and 10 trains after leaving London, I made it to Istanbul, and immediately loved it.  Mainly because if how much of it there is. Which is weird for me: I’d realized not long after moving to London that I naturally prefer cities of about a million inhabitants — big enough that there’s things going on; small enough that there’s a common culture because only one of those things happens at a time.

But somehow Istanbul sidles up to you and says, “you know how you like port cities built on hillsides? How about that, but… more? Say, hillside port city in every direction you look?” And I totally fell for it.

How could you not fall for this???
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Spotting the spies on my train to Istanbul

Did you know the Orient Express had the nickname “Spies’ Express“? Look I know the Orient Express doesn’t exist anymore but here’s my fellow travelers on the night train from Sofia to Istanbul, ranked by how definitely they were spies:

Clearly Sofia station is so empty because the locals want to get away from all the spies

The guy who stood in the corridor looking out the windows for ages: if he was a spy he wasn’t very subtle. Probably just wanted to stand for a bit. Or is that what he wanted us to think? Ultimately, he’s the least spy-like of the passengers.

The South American couple who asked me to swap compartments with one of them so they could travel together: hah, a likely excuse. No doubt there was some nefarious reason to have me further away from the toilets.

The conductor: had us all writing our names on a sheet of paper. Clearly a tactic to gain information; only worked because he was wearing a uniform.

The guy in my compartment who appeared to know my name even though I never told it to him: yeah, 100% spy.*

*if you’re wondering, it’s because he filled in the piece of paper with everyone’s names on it after me. There’s no gdpr on Turkish trains I guess.

Zoe’s post office reviews, from Budapest to Istanbul

On this trip, I’ve been writing postcards as I go. Initially I thought I’d hang onto them all until I get to Australia and post from there, but then in Budapest I decided I’d give the local post office a go. And since then I’ve done a post office trip in every city I’ve stayed in. Here are my reviews.

(“Did the card actually get to its recipient” — arguably the main function of the postal system — is not a criterion, because it’s far too early to judge that. I’m still in Istanbul for goodness sake.)

Budapest

This was my first post office, and I approached with trepidation. Would there be some obscure queueing system that I would get yelled at for misunderstanding? Would I be waiting all morning? Would I be able to explain that I would like a stamp for this postcard to the UK?

Lol. There was one person ahead of me in the queue. The lady behind the counter both smiled at me(!) and spoke perfect English. I regretted having only 2 cards to send, given how successful the exercise was.

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